TODAY’S MUSINGS:
Mr. M is now settled in Northern New Mexico. During my visits, in addition to exploring various destinations throughout the state, we, of course, have begun exploring the unique cuisine New Mexico has to offer.
New Mexico’s dishes are characterized by a blend of flavors influenced by Native, Mexican, and Spanish culinary traditions. Popular dishes include green chile stew, red chile stew (carne adovada), sopapilla (both sweet and savory), green chile cheeseburgers, biscochitos, as well as tamales and enchiladas.
There’s rich history, traditions, and foodways associated with New Mexico cuisine, so its with heartache that I admit my favorite restaurant in and around Santa Fe is a Spanish tapas place. When it comes to many New Mexico-style restaurants we’ve tried so far (I still have hope), it seems they’re either resting on their laurels (and the tourist trade) or serving up dishes made palatable for the masses by omitting both flavor and originality.
New Mexican cuisine is different than Mexican food, yet many restaurants seem to be serving up a giant plate of something akin to the enchilada plate at any California Mexican greasy spoon – some sort of indistinguishable meaty main dish with a side of flavorless rice and beans, all smothered in a sauce (red, green, or Christmas) and copious amounts of cheese in the hopes the diners won’t notice the entire cheese-smothered meal remains unremarkable. Often, New Mexican restaurants seem to sacrifice flavor in favor of pure chile heat. I’ve endured flaccid, oil-drenched sopapillas, survived vegan biscochitos from someone who fully admits he’s never eaten an actual biscochito (it shows), and have eaten more than my share of giant plates of cheesy, sauce-covered mystery entrees. Yet we’re learning as we navigate away from tourist favorites and “iconic” establishments in favor of local’s recommendations and off-the-beaten-path gems.
Little glints of culinary happiness light my way forward, giving me hope we’ll navigate to a “best of” list stretching between El Rito, Taos, Las Vegas, NM, and Albuquerque with the Santa Fe food scene snuggly in the middle. By far the best green chile stew I’ve eaten was from an older gentleman selling steaming Styrofoam cups of a rich concoction of pork shoulder, tender potatoes and just the right amount of green chile heat from a cart on the Plaza. Alas, I haven’t seen any cart sellers in the area these last few years. The best sopapillas (so far) were from a strip-mall breakfast spot, El Comal on Cerrillos Road, that was filled with local field workers and cops – always a good sign. For biscochitos, I’d tentatively give the award to a café in Chimayo, but I think my version would give them a run for their money.
I’m still searching for the best stuffed sopapillas – I’ve stuck my fork in a few filled so full and drenched in so much sauce and cheese I could have easily been eating an enchilada for all I could tell. In my idealized version, the sopapilla would remain crisp and pillowy, split open and encasing tender, flavorful meat and sauce, a bit of shredded lettuce and chopped tomato added to counter-balance the chile’s heat and finished with a light sprinkling of melty cheese – something you could eat like a sandwich rather than with a knife and fork.
Thanks to a friend’s recommendation, I found another glint of culinary joy this last trip. Even though closed for the season, award-winning Rosales Produce opened their doors to supply me with a bag of “Big Jim” smoked fresh red chilies as well as smoked blue corn masa. With Thanksgiving in mind, I thought the chili’s earthy smokiness and heat would pair well with sweet potatoes.
TODAY’S RECIPE:
Hatch green chilies may arguably be the most famous New Mexico chile, but I prefer the smokey earthiness of red. Fresh chilies can vary in heat level. Start with 2 Tablespoons of chopped roasted chilies and add more until your desired heat level is reached.
NEW MEXICO-STYLE CHILE MAPLE SWEET POTATOES
Ingredients
- 2 lbs. (about 2-3) sweet potatoes, skin on or off, cut into 1” cubes
- ½ large red onion, cut into 1” cubes
- 2 Tablespoons olive oil
- 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
- ½ cup chopped pecans
- ¼ cup maple syrup
- 2-3 Tablespoons chopped roasted fresh red chilies, New Mexico chilies preferred
- ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
- ¼ teaspoon ground cumin
- salt and freshly ground pepper
Directions
- Preheat oven to 400° F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. In a large bowl, combine sweet potatoes, red onion, and olive oil. Pour sweet potatoes onto baking sheet and roast, in a single layer, 30-40 minutes until potatoes are fork-tender.
- Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, combine unsalted butter, chopped pecans, and a pinch of salt. Cook over medium-high heat until pecans are toasted and fragrant. Reserve pecans and keep remaining butter in skillet.
- Reduce heat to medium. Add maple syrup, fresh red chilies, cinnamon, and cumin to skillet and cook until bubbling and fragrant. Set aside.
- Transfer sweet potatoes to serving bowl and drizzle with maple glaze. Stir to coat and season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with pecans and serve.
Note: New Mexico chilies are the best, but if you don’t happen to have freshly-roasted New Mexico chilies on hand, you can roast your own. Place them over an open flame, such as a grill or gas stovetop. Turn them occasionally until the skin becomes charred and blistered. Place the chilies in a paper bag or sealed container for about 10 minutes to loosen the skin. Then, peel, remove the seeds (optional depending on your desired heat level), and use them in your recipes.