Kumquat Marmalade (No Pectin)

Today’s Musings:

A passage from my upcoming book that ended on the cutting room floor.

Screens

How fitting that we label these devices mediating our conversation “screens.” Ours is a relationship defined by screens. The mobile screen we text on, the computer screen used to send our daily emails, and Zoom act as windows into each other’s lives, yet simultaneously create barriers between us. And while screens have once more brought us me together, they also serve to keep us apart. A relationship of distance, once more. From the seclusion of our own spaces, we reach out, yet remain shielded, carefully selecting what we reveal to one another.

Privacy screens and Shoji screens, the trellis that divides one neighbor from another, the pool screen that separates the serene turquoise from the chaos of bugs and leaves, the confessional screen—each acts as a metaphor for the boundaries we have meticulously constructed.

Above all, screens regulate what flows through them, sieving the good from the bad, the wanted from the unwanted, the known from the unknown. From the screened telephone call to the TSA screening, every interaction undergoes scrutiny, sifting and sorting. Screens to keep you out and screens to let you in.

Yet, for all their utility, screens limit our understanding. Like a cinema screen, they display a version of reality, but not the complete truth. Behind the front door screen lies an inner life concealed from view. The Julie I present to you, dear, is merely a screenprint.

For eighteen months, I have a boyfriend, and your wife is always present throughout, but we screen those sides of us from our conversation, aware of their existence, yet mention of them never filters through. In this mutual act of screening, we find solace and complicity.

In this intricate dance of the screen, we navigate the delicate balance between disclosure and concealment. Through these digital veils, we glimpse each other, yet, like Plato’s allegorical cave, we remain distant shadows cast upon the screen.

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Today’s Recipe:

Kumquat Marmalade (No Pectin)

  • Servings: 4 half-pint jars
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Ingredients

  • 1 ½ pounds kumquats
  • 3 cups water
  • Juice from 1 lemon
  • 3 cups granulated sugar

Directions

  1. Wash the kumquats thoroughly then cut them in quarters lengthwise and remove any seeds. Slice the kumquats thinly. Reserve the seeds. Optional: For a softer peel and to reduce bitterness, soak the sliced kumquats in water overnight, covered, in the refrigerator. This also helps reduce bitterness from the peel. Drain before using. Tie the seeds in a piece of cheesecloth and set aside.
  2. In a large pot, combine the sliced kumquats, water, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and let simmer for about 10 minutes.
  3. Add the sugar and seeds tied in cheesecloth to the pot and stir until sugar is completely dissolved. Increase the heat and bring mixture to a rolling boil. Let it boil, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens and reaches the setting point, about 25 minutes.
  4. Test the setting point by placing a small plate in the freezer. Drop a a small bit of the hot marmalade onto the plate and return it to the freezer for 1-2 minutes. If the marmalade wrinkles when you push it with your finger, it is ready. If not, continue boiling and test again after a few minutes.
  5. Once the marmalade has reached the setting point, remove the pot from the heat and let it sit for a few minutes to allow any bubbles to settle.
  6. Carefully ladle the hot marmalade into sterilized jars, leaving about ¼-inch of headspace at the top. Wipe the rims of the jars with a clean, damp cloth, then seal with lids.
  7. If you plan to store the marmalade for an extended period, process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Let the jars cool completely at room temperature and ensure the tops seal properly.

Fennel Orange Marmalade

Fennel Orange Marmalade

Fennel Orange Marmalade

The front yard nectarines are days away from exploding into ripeness. It’s a yearly race to harvest at peaking ripeness, but before the neighbors and dog walkers notice the dangling juicy orbs, denuding the branches of their bounty. In preparation for a potential nectarine jam session (of the Ball jar kind), I’ve been limbering up with a few marmalades. Last weekend was a batch of my favorite mouthwateringly tart lemon marmalade, from Susan Feniger’s Street cookbook. Today, I tested a savory Fennel-Orange Marmalade, only slightly adapted from Cat Cora’s recipe. Almost chutney-like in consistency and flavor, I’m envisioning spoonfuls crowning halibut steaks for July 4th.

Fennel Orange Marmalade
Makes two ½ pint jars
Slightly adapted from Cat Cora

 

2 Fennel Bulbs, thinly sliced and cored
½ Small Onion, thinly sliced
¾ c. Brown Sugar
3 Oranges, juiced
1 Lemon, juiced
½ c. Water
1 Orange, zested, supreme, and chopped
½ t. Fresh Ginger, grated (I didn’t include, but think it would benefit from the ginger’s bite.)
½ t. Salt
1 T. Chopped fresh Thyme or to taste

Heat fennel, onion, sugar, juices, and water in a saucepan and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes. Add zest, chopped orange, and ginger. Simmer for another 15-30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Watch closely toward the end to ensure marmalade doesn’t burn. Once thickened and gelled, take off heat, add salt and thyme. Use your standard canning process if not consuming within two weeks.