Two-Bit Musings:

I’ve been out of the baking game lately…and I’ve been struggling to get my groove back: a recipe test here, a middling loaf of bread there. Marketing my book seems to have strangled out the kitchen time I have always lovingly carved out for myself (and writing time, too!). This will not do. To quote Jamie Tartt in Ted Lasso, “Roy, I feel like I’ve lost me wings, Roy. Where the fuck are my wings, Roy?!”  I seem to have misplaced my baking wings.

I’ve been tottering back into the baking world in hopes of finding my baking wings again. Rather than my usual complicated, multi-step desserts,  I’ve been playing with simpler, classic bakes, like these French Sablés à l’Anis cookies.  Sablés are made from pâte sablée dough, one of the three types of tart dough (sablée, brisée, sucrée).  Sablée dough is sweet and rich, like a thin buttery shortbread cookie. It’s my go-to dough for classic French fruit tarts…and perfectly suited for converting into cookies.  

And although the cookies look straightforward, sablée dough can be finicky.  The butter must be softened, but over-soften it and your dough is a flabby mess.  No stand-mixer or beaters needed—too much air! You should use a wooden spoon or spatula to cream the butter and sugar. And while the flour must be fully incorporated, overmix it and you’re left with a tough dough.  I’ve seen different versions of this, some that rub the butter, sugar and flour together (sablage), but the recipe below is the one I learned in culinary school, so this method is my go-to, for now at least.

There’re a few recipes coming up on deck that are going to need my full baking mojo (Buttermilk Cake with Roasted Strawberry & Lemon Verbena Filling, Almond Cream & White Chocolate Swiss Meringue Buttercream, anyone?) so I’m focused on finding  my wings again, starting with these simple yet finicky French Sablés à l’Anis Cookies.

Two-Bit News:

I’ve been sharing stories, recipes, and a few hard-earned lessons on the podcast circuit. Listen in here.

Two-Bit Recipe:

Flavor, texture, scent, a sense of place. I love unique flavors like rose, orange blossom, cardamom.  I hold a special affinity for anise seed: Gibassier, Biscochitos, Biscotti, Greek Koulourakia.  While wandering Les Halles d’Avignon last month,  I plucked a cookie sample from one of the bakery stalls and plopped it in my mouth: sandy, buttery, with the unmistakable flavor of anise. Sablés à l’Anis. I did my best to recreate them here.